I want to try extending the nose strut height on my J model, to raise the nose a bit higher, and possibly install a larger front tire. I found the 5/8ths fiberglass rod material.
What I need to know is how to remove the original rods, and what adhesive to use for installing the new ones.
Have any of you done this modification? Suggestions welcome.
Thanks,
Riley
Nose Gear Struts
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blaswichk
Re: Nose Gear Struts
Unless you want a really big tire on the front (more drag), the leg spacing
is already wide enough for the next size bigger tire. One of my flying
friends with his JT2 has got a bigger nose tire than standard, and also
opted for Cessna size 6 ply rated mains (more drag), but he never gets flat
tires anymore. The higher nnose angle would help your rotation, and might
even just fly off the runway like the Odyssey and Gull 2000 which have a
higher angle of wing incidence than the J models.
On 09 Sep 2016 09:31:15 -0700
"rileydidit@gmail.com [Earthstar_Aircraft]"
<Earthstar_Aircraft@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
is already wide enough for the next size bigger tire. One of my flying
friends with his JT2 has got a bigger nose tire than standard, and also
opted for Cessna size 6 ply rated mains (more drag), but he never gets flat
tires anymore. The higher nnose angle would help your rotation, and might
even just fly off the runway like the Odyssey and Gull 2000 which have a
higher angle of wing incidence than the J models.
On 09 Sep 2016 09:31:15 -0700
"rileydidit@gmail.com [Earthstar_Aircraft]"
<Earthstar_Aircraft@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
-
rileywinglowe
Re: Nose Gear Struts
Thanks, Kess. It is the rotation at lower speed I'm really looking for. I didn't know the Odyssey and 2000 would do that.
I was even considering an 8 inch wheel to raise it some more. With the high thrust line, full power on takeoff holds the nose down longer. I have even accelerated at full power to less than my normal takeoff speed, reduced power, and had it lift off at the lower speed. Not a really practical way to do it.........
I have tried some 8:00 X 6 tires from an Avid Flyer on the mains, and have considered the 6:00 X 6 Cessna style mains. My biggest objection to the stock lawnmower tires is, I have yet to find any that are round. Lumpy, and impossible to balance. Lots of vibration. Also they are pretty stiff with their flat tread, so not as good on rough fields.
I was even considering an 8 inch wheel to raise it some more. With the high thrust line, full power on takeoff holds the nose down longer. I have even accelerated at full power to less than my normal takeoff speed, reduced power, and had it lift off at the lower speed. Not a really practical way to do it.........
I have tried some 8:00 X 6 tires from an Avid Flyer on the mains, and have considered the 6:00 X 6 Cessna style mains. My biggest objection to the stock lawnmower tires is, I have yet to find any that are round. Lumpy, and impossible to balance. Lots of vibration. Also they are pretty stiff with their flat tread, so not as good on rough fields.
-
earthstaraircraft
Re: Nose Gear Struts
Hi Riley
The fiber glass rods are available in 2 different grades, electrical and structural. Electrical is 1/2 price and 1/2 strength, DO Not USE Electrical grade, it will brake easily.
No, longer rods and larger wheels on the nose, messes with steering geometry and makes the plane less stable in gusty winds on the ground. Due to higher angle of attack on the ground.
People who have asked this question have not tightened there elevator cables. This condition causes the plane to not rotate at slow speeds.
To check the cable tension, have some one pull the stick all the way back to the aft stop. Than you push down on the trailing edge with about 5 lb of pressure, should not move more than 1/2 in.
Hope this helps.
Happy Flying
Mark Beierle, Earthstar Aircraft.
Sent from my iPhone
The fiber glass rods are available in 2 different grades, electrical and structural. Electrical is 1/2 price and 1/2 strength, DO Not USE Electrical grade, it will brake easily.
No, longer rods and larger wheels on the nose, messes with steering geometry and makes the plane less stable in gusty winds on the ground. Due to higher angle of attack on the ground.
People who have asked this question have not tightened there elevator cables. This condition causes the plane to not rotate at slow speeds.
To check the cable tension, have some one pull the stick all the way back to the aft stop. Than you push down on the trailing edge with about 5 lb of pressure, should not move more than 1/2 in.
Hope this helps.
Happy Flying
Mark Beierle, Earthstar Aircraft.
Sent from my iPhone
-
rileywinglowe
Re: Nose Gear Struts
Thanks, Mark. Yes, I have checked and adjusted the elevator cables. Thanks for the advice on the fiberglass.
What type of epoxy is used to retain the rods?
Riley
What type of epoxy is used to retain the rods?
Riley
-
earthstaraircraft
Re: Nose Gear Struts
Any structural adhesive will work.
Happy Flying
Mark
Sent from my iPhone
Happy Flying
Mark
Sent from my iPhone
-
rileywinglowe
Re: Nose Gear Struts
Okay. I'll give this all some more thought. I want to experiment with this for use on rougher airstrips in the mountains. This airplane has a lot of utility in a small package that is fun and economical to operate, and I do a lot of backcountry camping.
I would like to hear from anyone who has tried bigger, softer tires on their Tgulls and tried lowering the takeoff speeds. I appreciate the input.
Riley
I would like to hear from anyone who has tried bigger, softer tires on their Tgulls and tried lowering the takeoff speeds. I appreciate the input.
Riley
-
cossitt.alan
Re: Nose Gear Struts
I fly my Gull JT2 into backcountry airstrips. I used to do a lot of landing
on rough strips/back country strips and hope to do so again. I went from a
85 hp 2-cycle to the 60 hp HKS 4-cycle due to reliability issues (and will
never go back). I wanted to get the 80 hp HKS Turbo, which I think would be
the perfect backcountry engine for a Gull, and in fact put down the money
to buy one, but this was right when HKS was thinking of going out of
business and the dealer could not deliver the engine. I was also scared off
from buying an unsupported engine.
I'm starting to get the Gull dialed back in and will start doing some
backcountry flying again. The big limitation is the difference between 60
HP and 85 HP. It does make a difference on take-off runs but my recent
rebuild of my carbs and the inclusion of a Hacman leaning system have
allowed me to gain HP on for takeoff and climb.
I've not made any serious efforts to decrease the takeoff speed of my
Gull. With full-flaps I can rotate and stay in the air at 35 mph
indicated. I feel that is plenty good. Getting a substantial reduction of
this speed would probably involve fowler style flaps, or some other fairly
sophisticated modification to the wing (My Gull has a 26 ft wing, and I
think the 28 ft wing would be best for landing on the backcountry). This
would increase weight and complexity, probably for a very marginal (2-3 mph
at most) rotation speed improvement.
I have larger tires on the front and mains, though I've reduced the size of
the mains recently. The aircraft is so light (about 500 lbs empty) that
don't need a huge tire to get needed flotation. The big limitation is the
air pressure, and lowering the air pressure too low in tubes or tubeless
tires causes problems due to rim seal or tube movement, which is why the GA
Tundra tires are a one-piece construction (between the tube and outer
tire). I have a slightly longer front strut length, but kept it to the
minimum required.
I've very particular about the fiberglass I use. Mark is 100% on when he
says to use the higher quality fiberglass and I'd suggest taking a spare
main and nose strut, just in case, though I have never broken my gear on a
backcountry strip.
My suggestion would be to have as light of an airplane as possible. That
will be your biggest bang for the buck. Next might be a bigger wing. I went
through, when I installed by 700E, and removed every bit of weight I could
(from 575 empty to about 500 lbs). Years of airplane bloat had added
weight, and the HKS required much less gas, so I got rid of the large gas
tanks I had. I have a 'speed wing' which is entirely metal, and that adds
about 20 lbs to the airplane weight.
My doctor says I *must* lose weight, and that is my next airplane
performance goal ;) Knocking another 50 lbs off of me will make a huge
difference in performance.
-Alan
on rough strips/back country strips and hope to do so again. I went from a
85 hp 2-cycle to the 60 hp HKS 4-cycle due to reliability issues (and will
never go back). I wanted to get the 80 hp HKS Turbo, which I think would be
the perfect backcountry engine for a Gull, and in fact put down the money
to buy one, but this was right when HKS was thinking of going out of
business and the dealer could not deliver the engine. I was also scared off
from buying an unsupported engine.
I'm starting to get the Gull dialed back in and will start doing some
backcountry flying again. The big limitation is the difference between 60
HP and 85 HP. It does make a difference on take-off runs but my recent
rebuild of my carbs and the inclusion of a Hacman leaning system have
allowed me to gain HP on for takeoff and climb.
I've not made any serious efforts to decrease the takeoff speed of my
Gull. With full-flaps I can rotate and stay in the air at 35 mph
indicated. I feel that is plenty good. Getting a substantial reduction of
this speed would probably involve fowler style flaps, or some other fairly
sophisticated modification to the wing (My Gull has a 26 ft wing, and I
think the 28 ft wing would be best for landing on the backcountry). This
would increase weight and complexity, probably for a very marginal (2-3 mph
at most) rotation speed improvement.
I have larger tires on the front and mains, though I've reduced the size of
the mains recently. The aircraft is so light (about 500 lbs empty) that
don't need a huge tire to get needed flotation. The big limitation is the
air pressure, and lowering the air pressure too low in tubes or tubeless
tires causes problems due to rim seal or tube movement, which is why the GA
Tundra tires are a one-piece construction (between the tube and outer
tire). I have a slightly longer front strut length, but kept it to the
minimum required.
I've very particular about the fiberglass I use. Mark is 100% on when he
says to use the higher quality fiberglass and I'd suggest taking a spare
main and nose strut, just in case, though I have never broken my gear on a
backcountry strip.
My suggestion would be to have as light of an airplane as possible. That
will be your biggest bang for the buck. Next might be a bigger wing. I went
through, when I installed by 700E, and removed every bit of weight I could
(from 575 empty to about 500 lbs). Years of airplane bloat had added
weight, and the HKS required much less gas, so I got rid of the large gas
tanks I had. I have a 'speed wing' which is entirely metal, and that adds
about 20 lbs to the airplane weight.
My doctor says I *must* lose weight, and that is my next airplane
performance goal ;) Knocking another 50 lbs off of me will make a huge
difference in performance.
-Alan
-
cossitt.alan
Re: Nose Gear Struts
I forgot one modification that may be useful and is fairly simple. This
modification is closing the gap between the wing and the fuselage. I
experimented with this and personally did not see any performance gain that
I was able to measure, but your mileage may vary. A lot of air does flow
through this gap, between the high pressure and low pressure zones on the
wing.
-A
modification is closing the gap between the wing and the fuselage. I
experimented with this and personally did not see any performance gain that
I was able to measure, but your mileage may vary. A lot of air does flow
through this gap, between the high pressure and low pressure zones on the
wing.
-A
-
mkoxxy
Re: Nose Gear Struts
Good info, Alan, thanks. My eGull has the 28ft wing, and I have kept the
Quark reasonably light by using Oratex fabric and only 2 of the 2.8kWh/45lb
batteries. The 40kW motor (54HP) has more power than I ever need - I
usually take off with just 22kW. Unlike with ICEs, I have full torque from
the second I push the throttle forward, and I can set a pretty aggressive
prop pitch. On pavement, without flaps, I am off the ground in less than
200 feet at 35 mph and climb out at what seems like 45°. That, plus the
reliability of electric propulsion would be great for bush operations, but
with just 60 minutes flying time and no way to recharge... Battery
technology is certain to improve dramatically over the next few years,
though; Mark is already working with the next generation.
My wing has "fillers" and a cowl over the controller (in front of the
motor), which completely close off the top of the wing.
On "personal" weight reduction: I went vegan 14 years ago and lost 60 lbs
in 3 years without really trying. Much improved energy and the healthiest
I've been in decades. Cannot think of a better way to reduce take-off
weight.
Martin
Quark reasonably light by using Oratex fabric and only 2 of the 2.8kWh/45lb
batteries. The 40kW motor (54HP) has more power than I ever need - I
usually take off with just 22kW. Unlike with ICEs, I have full torque from
the second I push the throttle forward, and I can set a pretty aggressive
prop pitch. On pavement, without flaps, I am off the ground in less than
200 feet at 35 mph and climb out at what seems like 45°. That, plus the
reliability of electric propulsion would be great for bush operations, but
with just 60 minutes flying time and no way to recharge... Battery
technology is certain to improve dramatically over the next few years,
though; Mark is already working with the next generation.
My wing has "fillers" and a cowl over the controller (in front of the
motor), which completely close off the top of the wing.
On "personal" weight reduction: I went vegan 14 years ago and lost 60 lbs
in 3 years without really trying. Much improved energy and the healthiest
I've been in decades. Cannot think of a better way to reduce take-off
weight.
Martin