Earthstar Forums

I have been asked to show how I set prop pitch on ground-adjustable Aerolux
props.

I use a digital level to which I attached a flat hook that fits over the
leading edge of the blade. It does not matter what the exact number is (the
scale on the blade roots gets you close enough), only that the angle
matches precisely on all three blades.
To make sure the level is in the same position every time, I first make
sure that each blade is measured in the same position by supporting it. I
used a couple yardsticks that I taped together at the right length, or one
could also use a camera tripod.
Next, I hang the level on the blade, aligned with the start of the metal
wear strips. Then I push on the top of the hook to make sure the level
hangs plumb. The ideal setup would have 3-point contact: two points on the
leading edge with enough separation (3 to 4 inches), and one point resting
on the blade near the trailing edge. You know you got a good setup when you
get the same angle every time you hang the level on the *same* blade
(repeatability).
This method allows me to get to within 0.1° between blades. To get better
precision would require a level with higher resolution.
My prop is set to 24°, and it runs fairly smoothly, but I think I can
remove a little more vibration by balancing the prop.

I just saw my third photo may not have been sent. Here it is.

Wish no ape with a philip’s driver has been sighted in the vicinity. This area of the gull is like the brain stem, anthropomorphically speaking. does call for some wicked-proofing,

a. a tamper proof rarer fastener head, like a torx, sentinel, 2-hole or a tri-wing head

b. a better prop that hides the fasteners in the spinner. DUC swirl does that, complete with an inconel leading edge. you’ll have to find out if it’s ground adjustable.

c. a “patented higher security” lock for the garage or hangar; like a "medeco XT padlock" or a "mul-t-lock mt5+” with smarter keys. Medeco XT comes with a single key with a battery inside that last over a year, Banks use this as an additional lock on safes. “Patented keys’ mean two different things in lockworld. One is a key shape that is restricted in circulation, the other is a key with an actual patent that’s still valid for a decent few years at least. I’d be happy to hear more on goodies on locks here, since it’s hard to make sense out of the world of locks from 12 timezones away.

2cents,
Rahul

We are blessed with a low crime rate at our airports here, and there are
cameras everywhere now. I do lock the Quark's door, but I'm not worried. It
probably helps that tampering with or breaking into an aircraft is a
federal crime in the US.

Yes, what’s the Allen key(#2?) like thing portruding near the wing root? Does the power switch go on the +ve or -ve terminal of the (secondary?) battery? had a case of battery drain (~.5V a day) on an old motorcycle that seems to be some rust under a ground bolt.

Highly populated here, saw two 5-10story complexes come up within 50yards of the domestic terminal wall within a a couple years of discovering the Gull (in a sense) on the internet. Sounded political, they were cordoned off after completion and never demolished. Similar story in a couple other village farm sites nearby, seems a lot of people got busy building “lookouts’ on higher ground. makes me shudder.

"Blade root", right? Those bolts on the prop hub use a 5mm Allen wrench.
But they are only there to spread the load on the blades. The real work of
holding the prop to the flange is done by 6 much stronger bolts (hidden
under the spinner). Those are torqued and safetied with wire.

On the other subject, I believe the "ignition" key turns on 12V DC, which
in turn opens the contactors on the battery. But obviously for that to
work, some power has to be available even with the contactors closed, which
could make it possible to slowly drain the battery. There is no separate
12V "starter battery" (as in my Bolt EV). My previous battery (2x 2.8 kWh)
may have suffered from that scenario. My new 2016 13kWh battery seems to
have a few additional intelligent interlocks to prevent total drain. So
far, I see no signs that I am losing charge over extended periods.

I have connected the charger to 115VAC via a simple mechanical timer that
shuts off the power lead after a time I set (see below). After flying, if I
am close to 10% charge, I set the timer to 12 hours. The one time I had set
it to 7 hours, the charge level had only reached 88%. I have also
disconnected the ground lead (right inside the plane), as recommended by
some Zero motorcycle owners. I am hoping, both of these measures will keep
the Quark's electrical systems safe while tied down out in the weather,
even during thunderstorms.

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Alright, thought they were there to set the AoA of the blades. what’s the valid range of AoA for the propellors? How often do you haev to tune them again, like in numbers of hours or number of flights? Is it just more vibration one would feel instantly and identify easily, if they were off by a few degrees relative to each other (ie nothing more catastrophic than that)?

Actually, meant “rear of the wing root” in the attached picture. it’s probably related to the flap. And what’s the paint blister like unevenness just below it?

Am from a computer background, this electrical language sounds inverted to me. Does’nt the Master key mechanically connect the contactors instead of “opening” them? These “intelligent interlocks”, are the mechanical too or a small electrical module one can get at digikey? (“Ignition” key or “kill” switch, sound a bit scary, lets avoid)

Thanks! for the mechanical countdown timer. had two cases of distraction with a hotiron & a infrared lamp, just minor so far, touchwood. what’s your approach to keeping batteries topped up with a trickle charge for long term storage of vehicles (&planes), like around a year? Got a small charger for autos, but power outs are common, and I haven’t gone searching for a small standalone photovoltaic solution it yet.

Sorry I did not get to this sooner (busy - Google "Oregon Country Fair").
Rahul, what looks like an Allen wrench is actually the 90° bend at the end
of the piano hinge pin that holds down the cowling (one on each side). I
may eventually come up with a lock, but in several weeks of flying now,
those pins have not budged. I carry a small Vise Grip in case I have to
pull the pins.

It’s alright. thought it something to do with the flap hinge. will see it when I see the gull for real, one of these years.

(niice. you’re an artisan too? bartered a kaleidoscope for a single malt from a senior friend at work who was a regular at fairs like this (opticalwonders.com <http://opticalwonders.com/>). never got to actually visit one yet)